Friday, October 2, 2009

A French getaway

Didn't mean to get into the travel journal mode but hardly did we unpack suitcases from one holiday when a rare two- day weekend cropped up and Saturday morning saw us driving down to Pondicherry. Pondi-Chennai highway is scenic and one doesn't even feel the three hour distance. Since the French relinquished their claim over Pondy only in 1954 , this little town is tres français in many ways. The French quarter is particularly charming roads with names like rue Romain Rolland and rue Sufferen dotted with high- walled colonial villas. Seems like another time , another place.On that warm, lazy afternoon,nothing stirred. Siesta time perhaps .

Walking down rue Dumas after a leisurely late French lunch at a heritage villa turned restaurant , we wandered into a 19th Century church, Notre Dame de Anges. Beautiful stainglass windows, cool limestone interiors ( apparently plastered with egg shells) and exquisitely carved stations of the cross. I took my girl around and explained the story of Jesus' (non)trial and cruxification. Sitting in the pew , I searched the compassionate face of Jesus for answers. In these troubled times, don't we need some one to come down and help make sense of all the chaos? It's been a while since I prayed and pray I did in this beautiful church to an old familiar god.

Drove back to our beach resort so that T wouldn't miss her pottery session . I found a book I was long looking for, in the hotel library so spent the evening reading by the sea... That's the pace of life in Pondicherry where all's well with the world. For someone always looking for something to do and somewhere to go , I found that I was actually enjoying the serenity of the place and this lotus eating leisurely languor that set in .

But dawn saw enthusiastic father and daughter run down to the beach for a splash .In between they managed to build an Egyptian style tomb with interconnected passages et al! Why is it we never tire of beach holidays? Pondicherry is a perfect option becoz it isn't too crowded and has a laid back feel.

Avoided the Ashram/Auroville part all together. The concept and philosophy goes way above my simple , uncomplicated head.But if some people find their haven there, good for them. The first time I checked out the Auroville scene while in college with a couple of college friends , it was uncomfortable and oppressive for unexplianable reasons. Plus Pondicherry itself was not on any tourist map at that point in time and getting to Auroville by public transport was impossible. We trudged 4 kilometers in the blazing sun after getting off a bus on the main road.Now there are autorickshaws and little shops , guest houses all along the way. Though wonder what the average local tourist makes of it. They do arrive by the bus loads !
I can think of a couple of folks who might just fit into this place, must make a note to tell them about it ( that is if these hermits actually pick up the telephone!!)
Coming back to the rest of us the food here is something fabulous. The restaurants in the French quarter offer an eclectic cuisine- French, creole, continental , chettinad, italian...you can take your pick. We of course prefered to eat French and Creole .Driving past another narrow street, an intoxicating smell stopped us right on our tracks. We stopped and reversed literally. It was the heady smell of chocolate from a little place aptly named Chocolat! I must confess that for a person with no sweet tooth whatsoever like moi, it was sweet surrender. The young man who owned the place seemed enthusiastic and ready to experiment.He had gone to France to learn his chocolate making and now he was running this sinfully exotic place . His wares were out of this world but pricey. I guess indulgences are always a luxury one should feel a little guilty about later ..or what is the fun?
There are more facets to this little seaside town which we plan to explore the next time (ther's always the next time!!!) Everyone who makes their weekend trip here ( more Bangaloreans that Chennaites) have their own take of the place..So go check out and write your own story...Au revoir!